Whisky, History, and Loch Ness: Inverness Opens the Door to Scotland's Highland Wonders
As we stepped onto the Keswick Bridge heading towards the undulating landscapes just beyond Inverness, the young spring barley in the verdant fields was yet to mature for several more weeks before the harvest would take place. This crop will then travel to a local malt house and ultimately find its way to one of over 150 distilleries across Scotland where it will be transformed into whiskey.
Interspersed among the barley fields were yellow rows of flowering rapeseed, used to make cooking oil, and herds of grazing sheep that seemed to outnumber people.
The scene looked like something that would remain unchanged for millennia. However, rapeseed began being cultivated starting from the 1970s, and previously, there used to be significantly more humans than sheep around here, explained my guide, Cath Findlay.
Findlay mentioned that during the chaotic century known as the Highland Clearances, landowners evicted the majority of their tenants and instead introduced sheep, seeing these animals as more profitable than human inhabitants.
At the time, the British government was engaged in conflicts worldwide, and they required wool for uniforms and meat for their troops," she explained. "Therefore, across many parts of the Highlands, which are characterized by hills and numerous sheep, this becomes quite evident.
The history lesson struck a chord as it became clear throughout my week. Scotland That the past is highly prevalent. However, Inverness and its surroundings are not stagnant relics of history.
Inverness: A compact yet bustling urban center
Inverness serves as the entry point to the Highlands, A wild and windy area in northwest Scotland characterizes this locale. Despite being compact, the bustling city here ranks among the quickest expanders within the UK. It primarily draws enthusiasts intrigued by the myth of the Loch Ness Monster, serving as their starting point for exploration.
In recent times, though, Scotland has been developing an international identity beyond just its whiskies, the Loch Ness Monster, and tartan plaids, even as these elements remain prevalent.
Walking across downtown takes about 15 relaxed minutes. The red sandstone Inverness Castle, perched above a cliff at one end, had scaffolding all over it during my visit last spring. It’s set for renovations aimed at transforming it into an engaging site centered around tales from the Highlands, with completion anticipated later this year.
At the very center stands the newly renovated Victorian Market, an erstwhile busy hub that was nearly set for closure until the arrival of the COVID lockdown.
The town leaders seized this opportunity to infuse fresh energy into it. Now, the market features an array of artisanal stores, coffee shops, jewelry boutiques, barberies, and just one left-over butcher shop (be sure to sample their meat pies; as per Findlay’s comment, they surpass even home-cooked versions).
The seafood market was replaced with a lively food hall, with the acclaimed Bad Girls Bakery as its first tenant. Following soon were innovative but affordable seafood at The Redshank, pulled meat at Ollie’s Pops, vegan at Salt N Fire, and more.
Currently, live music can be enjoyed daily, and during peak weeks, around 75,000 individuals visit the marketplace. This number almost mirrors the total population of the whole city.
"It was lifeless as a doornail, and now it's the thriving heartbeat of the town," Findlay stated.
Right off Church Street, which serves as the primary thoroughfare, The Walrus and Corkscrew was established shortly thereafter as the town’s sole wine bar. Closeby, at Black Isle Bar, you can enjoy wood-fired pizzas alongside one of twenty-four organic beers brewed personally by the proprietors on their farm located just beyond city limits.
A tale accompanies your dish at the Downright Gabbler
Nearby in the village of Beauly, the Downright Gabbler inn features four suites along with a dedicated storyteller who lives there permanently.
Garry Coutts and his spouse, Jane Cumming, started off with a modest dining area, featuring Garry's daughter Kristy as the head chef. While this isn’t quite classified as a traditional eatery, they organize various thematic gatherings every week which incorporate Coutts' vast understanding of Scottish History and myth alongside their daughter’s contemporary interpretation of classic recipes.
Included among these events is the frequently organized Highland Feast, a six-course culinary journey that maps out the area's history from ancient eras through contemporary periods. For example, venison carpaccio paired with pickled blackberries draws inspiration from early hunter-gatherer diets; however, as Coutts pointed out, their diet consisted primarily of far more seafood and wild-picked vegetation compared to deer meat.
“They are extremely hard to catch,” Coutts remarked with a chuckle. “They tend to flee!”
The courses were presented with stories interspersed throughout, covering everything from some illicit beginnings of Johnnie Walker’s origin. whisky melded with the pair's dislike for Las Vegas. On the table lay a deck of cards, every one inscribed with the name of a notable Scotsman to be picked randomly for an impromptu tale.
Coutns mentioned that I retrieved information about Alexander Graham Bell, who probably has the highest number of lawsuits related to patent infringements filed against him.
"It's remarkable how many Americans come in here and inform me that he isn’t Scottish," he stated.
Best advice for exploring the Highlands
Where to Stay: Options for accommodations feature the contemporary, five-star Ness Walk Hotel, which is just a 20-minute stroll away from downtown, and the charming, independently-run Heathmount Hotel located within a 10-minute walk from Church Street.
Traveler's Tip: Despite being a tiny town, an impressive variety of live music can be found here. Musicians draw audiences nightly to venues like Hootananny and The Highlander, with performances often extending until late at MacGregor’s and elsewhere. Start your evening off right by visiting The Malt Room where you can sample one of their extensive selection of 350 different single malt whiskies.
You can obtain additional details from visitscotland.com .
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